In my third year of university, I embarked on a Canadian adventure as an exchange student at the University of British Columbia Okanagan (UBCO). As a small De Havilland Dash 8-400 flew me into Kelowna airport, giving off a deafening sound that did not instil the utmost confidence in the propeller’s aeronautic abilities, a single thought circled my mind, what have I gotten myself into? The view out the window certainly wasn’t offering any clues, with the surrounding area covered in a smokey hue leftover from the summer’s wildfires. But, on the third day, in almost biblical fashion, the smoke cleared, taking with it all of my doubts.
Sandwiched in the province of British Columbia, from Kelowna to Kamloops, the valley, known for its wineries and relatively warm climate, is something of a hidden gem. Sitting in its westward corner, UBCO offered a very different type of educational timetable. Mornings began with a brisk walk along the pine trail in the forest at the top of campus, with the nights filled with drinks by the Okanagan lake or watching the mighty Kelowna Rockets try their hardest to beat the Seattle Seahawks at Ice-hockey. All of this was accompanied by meeting quite possibly the world’s nicest people, for whom nothing was too much trouble. As long as you didn’t make the social faux pas of dismissing the differences between them and their American neighbours.
Most importantly, the valley respects its history, even the parts most would rather forget. Around 3,000 years ago, an estimated 12,000 first nations people of the Sylix tribe lived in the Okanagan and there is an awareness from locals that they reside on their land. The valley’s signposts always point to destinations in both English and Nsyilxcen, the Sylix language.
Capturing a very special place in my heart, the Okanagan valley has been calling me back since the very moment my plane touched back down in London at the end of the academic year. One day, post-lockdown, I will answer its call. Forget the American dream, look further north and you’ll find the Canadian utopia.
Things to do
Grab some skis
In the most endearingly Canadian fashion, the nearest ski resort from campus atop a big white mountain is aptly named Big White resort. Don’t be fooled by the rather modest summit of 2,319 metres, once you get yourself off the Cliff Chair lift, and point your skis downhill on the parachute bowl run, you really are flying. In this euphoria, you forgive and forget the -20C temperatures. Once your legs can do no more, there is a table awaiting you in Snowshoe Sam’s. Warm your soul with a cold beer and bowl of poutine, a Canadian delicacy of chips and gravy topped with cheese curds – give it a chance it is better than it sounds.
Hop on a horse
Sitting 500 metres above downtown Kelowna at the entrance of Myra-Bellevue Provincial Park, Myra Canyon Ranch and Lodge is run by the von Andrian family who threw off the shackles of their cosmopolitan life to pursue their dreams. With horses suited for riders of all abilities, much to my delight, a guided tour takes you through the park on horseback looking across small town Kelowna.
Explore downtown
Living up to our reputation as students, we found that sometimes the best things in life are free. A short trip on the number 97 bus will take you to downtown Kelowna. It is a beautiful contradiction of a city, emitting a hustle and bustle whilst sporting architecture that harkens back to the days of the old wild west. The edge of West Kelowna brings you to the Okanagan lake that stretches 135 km long. Boats and yachts live on the Marina, either, depending on the season, bobbing peacefully or sitting frozen still in the lake. Here we sat, time after time, declaring “bottoms up!” with some Old Milwaukee beers – always keeping an eye peeled for Ogopogo, Canada’s answer to the Loch Ness Monster.