How to choose wine in a restaurant

When you visit your favourite restaurant (remember that, going out for dinner) and you are handed the wine list, how long do you take to peruse the “bins”? Are you a “hunter”, determinedly looking for your favourite, or are you a “cogitator”, someone who enjoys the thrill of spending time to find something new? Does the waiter standing over the table with a pen poised, rush you into a “safe bet” choice?

Backed by some research a large UK wholesaler did a number of years ago, it has been proven that the average customer will take approximately four to six seconds to look before they reach a decision on the glass or bottle. What a fascinating fact; the most cursory of glances will incur a decent percentage of your final bill.

In many reputable establishments the owner or maître d’ will have spent time on selection and balancing the wine list to the cuisine of their restaurant and the season they are in. The smart ones will have also used their relationship with the merchants who supply them to get the intel on what is happening in their competitors and the greater marketplace in general; they understand how vital it is to remain in touch with what the public are drinking and stay relevant.

In the restaurant world at this time of year, in non-Covid times, thoughts moving to the shape of the new wine list and what out of the current portfolio should stay on and what should get the chop. The process of analysis and number crunching takes place now due to seasonal change and annual price rises imposed by the producers themselves and an almost certain hike in duty by HM Revenue and Customs.

This year will be an abjectly painful retrospective with all that has happened to the hospitality trade due to the pandemic; the picture is varying degrees of appalling for the vast majority of operators who have been unable to trade for much of the year.

As someone involved in the day-to-day of the restaurant trade, I passionately implore you to get out there, when it sparks back into life and treat yourself. Engage with the good people of your favourite dining establishment and bombard them with questions and conversation as, this I can promise you; they have genuinely missed you. We are gregarious people in hospitality and take great pleasure when you enjoy the new things. We’ll have sourced wines for you to try.

My key advice for restaurant wine selection:

1) Engage your waiter or sommelier, set clear parameters:

– It’s your money – if the wine suggested is too expensive, you’re not being cheap for asking for something in your price range.

– Food pairing – good restaurant staff should be able to clearly express what is tasty and goes with the chef’s menu.

2) Ask what’s new & exciting on the list – the best lists are being regularly updated and new wines will be included for their stand-out quality.

3) Nervous? Head for New World wines first as usually the grape variety is prominent in their name – you don’t have to worry about knowing what goes into a Crozes Hermitage for example.

Ultimately, choose what you want as it is in everyone’s interest that you have a great experience.