A winter weekend in Dubrovnik is the perfect escape
Dubrovnik is usually associated with the sights and sounds of summer. It is known as an Adriatic hot spot where swarms of tourists flock to see historic walls and streets that make up the Old Town. In these months, the gorgeous Mediterranean heat and the promise of stunning scenes causes the place to quite literally erupt with people. This certainly makes for an atmospheric experience, but it can become wearing for those who are looking for a more peaceful or relaxing holiday.
I would instead recommend making a trip to Dubrovnik in the winter, as I did in November. It is a perfect location for a short but memorable getaway for anyone looking to combine culture with good cuisine. I would recommend starting any winter tour of Dubrovnik with a walk around the historic town walls which encircle the Old Town. Fans of HBO’s television series Game of Thrones will, of course, love it – many of the show’s iconic moments were filmed in and around these walls.
If you pick the right day, then you will have a clear vantage point of the city’s picturesque alleys, churches, and rooftops. The sandstone buildings and spectacular towers built across several generations give a charming illusion of time travel.
While wandering around the Old Town, I would also advise taking a trip to one of the many spectacular monasteries and museums. If you are serious about trekking round several museums to absorb information and culture, it is possible to invest in a single ticket that will give you access to several of Dubrovnik’s museums, from the institutions devoted to archaeology and natural history to the Museum of Modern Art.
One place which particularly impressed me was the Dominican Monastery and Museum towards the Old Town’s south-eastern gate. Not only are its cloisters very beautiful, they are also a wonderfully wistful place at this time of year. The museum attached to the monastery does not disappoint – it houses truly stunning canvasses and devotional artworks. One impressive piece was a polyptych created by the itinerant Montenegrin painter, Lovro Marinov Dobričević in 1448 in which resplendent golden arches and vivid colours surround a scene depicting the baptism of Christ by John the Baptist.
There is also a more subdued, but nonetheless grand, canvass by the Neapolitan painter, Antonio de Bellis, who was powerfully influenced by Caravaggio. It ties Dubrovnik’s rich history to the cultural currents of emerging baroque styles of painting. This piece, dating to c. 1657/8, shows the Virgin with St. Blaise and St. Francis before the port of Dubrovnik in the decade preceding the disastrous earthquake of 1667 in a sublime and brooding tableau.
For the true geek, the Dominican Museum also has a collection of rare but important manuscripts which can be viewed up close in the displays. One fascinating item was a translation of Aristotle’s Metaphysics into Latin from the 13th century, presumably from Arabic, a document testifying to the rediscovery of this work by scholars in Europe during the centuries after what has been called “the twelfth century Renaissance”. It is a testament to Dubrovnik’s place in the lucrative trade routes between Venice and the East in this period. In short, the Dominican museum is a hidden treat filled with esoteric riches from Croatia’s history.
If you’re seeking something with a little more modern spark, however, then there is also an unexpected surprise under ten minutes’ walk away on the other side of the Old Town. This is an exhibition devoted to the Spanish surrealist maverick, Salvador Dali, currently being shown in the Convent of St. Claire. It is a well presented space, with light classical music in the background and quotes from Dali himself bedecking the walls, both of which add to the experience.
The works which are on display here are also typically fascinating and provocative, placing the dimensions of Dali’s eccentric and brilliant mind before your eyes. One display showed works by Dali on the horse in human culture, from a Lady Godiva rendered with radiant colours and a watercolour depiction of Don Quixote and Sancho Panza to the terror of the Trojan horse from Homer’s Odyssey.
A welcome prize for those who complete the walk around the town’s treasures is to be found just outside of the gates of the Old Town. I would recommend dining at Gusta Me, a café and restaurant just outside the south-eastern entrance. It is a trendy example of Croatia’s famous café culture, which plays smooth American jazz and blues and has a delicious lunch menu. It combines great coffee with delicate cuisine. Another good sign is that, even in the winter, it is frequented by the locals.
Dubrovnik’s bars are an essential experience. I would recommend Fontana, a cheap and charming establishment tucked away in one of the town’s small side streets. It is one of the few bars in the area that locals still frequent. It is an authentic taste of Croatian café culture in the day and of its vibrant night life in the evening.
I stayed at the Rixos Libertas Hotel, which is a short and sharp fifteen minute walk away from the Old Town. It can be reached easily by taxi also, with fares costing between 60-80 Kuna (about £7-£10). The hotel has a good range of rooms from £100 upwards, and commands a view of the Adriatic coastline which weaves and winds around Dubrovnik and its environs. It has a comfortable bar with good food and a restaurant which provides both a set menu and buffets for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. It is modern, spacious, and deluxe.
Those seeking a smaller, and perhaps more authentic, atmosphere could go for the Villa Orsula, which is only a five minute walk from the Old Town. It is set in a boutique 1930s villa overlooking Lokrum Island and the edge of the Old Town, and boasts its own Peruvian fine dining restaurant. It is a member of the prestigious Small Luxury Hotels (SLH) Group, and guarantees to provide a personalised experience.
All in all, the sights and sounds of Dubrovnik set a wonderful scene for travellers hoping to escape the madding crowd for a charming winter weekend.